我聽說美國中餐館的中餐不像中國的正宗中餐。是這樣嗎?如果是,兩者有什么區(qū)別?
I have heard it said that Chinese food in Chinese restaurants in America is not like authentic Chinese foods in China. Is this so, and if yes, what are the differences?
譯文簡介
"地道"純屬扯淡。你真以為美國中餐之所以是現(xiàn)在這個(gè)味道,是因?yàn)閺N師們無論如何努力都做不正宗嗎?中國的中國廚師使用本地食材、迎合本地口味。美國的中國廚師也是如此。這些都是生意,他們都在盡力滿足顧客需求。
正文翻譯
"地道"純屬扯淡。你真以為美國中餐之所以是現(xiàn)在這個(gè)味道,是因?yàn)閺N師們無論如何努力都做不正宗嗎?中國的中國廚師使用本地食材、迎合本地口味。美國的中國廚師也是如此。
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Authenticity is bullshit. Do you really think Chinese food in the US tastes the way it does because, try as they might, they just couldn’t get it right? The Chinese chefs in China work with local ingredients and cook to local tastes. So do the Chineses chefs in the US. These are businesses and they do their best to satisfy their customers.
"地道"純屬扯淡。你真以為美國中餐之所以是現(xiàn)在這個(gè)味道,是因?yàn)閺N師們無論如何努力都做不正宗嗎?中國的中國廚師使用本地食材、迎合本地口味。美國的中國廚師也是如此。這些都是生意,他們都在盡力滿足顧客需求。
Chinese food in Chinese restaurants where the Americans go is not like authentic Chinese food in China.
For example:
WTF is a General Tso’s chicken?
美國人光顧的中餐館里的中國菜,和地道的中國本土中餐并不一樣。
比如:
左宗棠雞到底是什么鬼?
Yuck, just by the looks of it.
As someone from General Tso’s home town, we apply chili to almost all our dishes.
Our fish:
Our chicken:
Our beef:
Our eggs:
Our children’s treats:
光是看著就惡心。
作為來自左宗棠家鄉(xiāng)的人,我們幾乎每道菜都放辣椒。
我們的魚:
我們的雞:
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我們的牛肉:
我們的雞蛋:
我們給孩子的零食:
The sauce and vinegar used in American General Tso’s chicken would be illegal in the kitchens native to General Tso’s hometown.
The simplistic explaination would be, oh those dumb Americans can’t handle authentic Chinese food so it had to be changed.
But is that all?
美式左宗棠雞用的醬汁和醋,在左宗棠家鄉(xiāng)的廚房里是絕對禁止使用的。
簡單粗暴的解釋可能是:哦,那些愚蠢的美國人吃不了正宗中餐,所以必須改良。
但事情真的這么簡單嗎?
Faced with an increasingly aggressive Japan infiltrating the Chinese protectorate of Korea, and a rebellion in xinjiang backed by Tsar Russia, the Chinese court went into heated debate on which way to go:
An expedition to the West or a modernized navy?
The empire only had enough resource for one.
那是19世紀(jì)。中華帝國正因遭遇更先進(jìn)的西方列強(qiáng)而陷入困境。
面對日益猖獗的日本對朝鮮藩屬國的滲透,以及沙俄支持的新疆叛亂,清廷就發(fā)展方向展開激烈辯論:
是西征還是建設(shè)現(xiàn)代化海軍?
帝國資源只夠選擇其一。
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當(dāng)朝廷幾乎達(dá)成共識要將貧瘠且不如朝鮮重要的新疆拱手讓給俄國時(shí),一個(gè)人站出來反對——左宗棠。
"1.66 million square kilometers of Chinese territory and you’re just giving it away?"
Through his petition, Tso earned the royal decree to fight a private war against Russia and take back xinjiang.
"166萬平方公里的中國領(lǐng)土,你們說放棄就放棄?"
通過上書,左宗棠獲得圣旨,得以發(fā)動私人戰(zhàn)爭對抗俄國、收復(fù)新疆。
With the British funding and more importantly military neutrality secured, Tso famously trimmed his forces instead of blostering it, to only those who were willing to fight to the death, and launched his attack into the Western deserts carrying his own coffin on the vanguard.
左宗棠利用圣旨和人脈獲得英國資助,因?yàn)橛蚕胪ㄟ^印度擴(kuò)張到新疆,或至少阻止俄國在新疆的推進(jìn)以免威脅英屬印度。
獲得英國資金和至關(guān)重要的軍事中立保證后,左宗棠著名地精簡部隊(duì)——只留下誓死效忠的將士,并抬棺西征。
盡管對日抗戰(zhàn)最終失敗、朝鮮分裂為兩個(gè)外國,但這場自發(fā)的新疆征戰(zhàn)——這片占中國六分之一的土地——確保其至今牢牢掌握在中國手中。
1952年,敗退臺灣(地區(qū))的國民政府接待美國第七艦隊(duì)司令。同樣來自湖南的官廚彭長貴為歡迎晚宴創(chuàng)制這道菜并命名為"左宗棠雞"。我們無從得知他做成酸甜口是為迎合美國人、當(dāng)時(shí)浙江籍的政府高層,還是因?yàn)榕_灣(地區(qū))人不吃辣找不到好辣椒,亦或是為紀(jì)念這位抗擊俄援叛亂的英雄——這想必是臺灣(地區(qū))當(dāng)局和彭本人對BJ新政權(quán)的看法。
1970年代,彭長貴移居美國,左宗棠雞隨之傳入。
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This should be viewed as an authentic new development in the history of Chinese cuisine, a story of patriotism even, and just because it isn’t a dish that can be found in mainland China, doesn’t take anything away from it.
這應(yīng)被視為中餐史上真正的新發(fā)展,甚至是一段愛國故事。不能因?yàn)樗谥袊箨懗圆坏骄头穸ㄋ膬r(jià)值。
美國人應(yīng)當(dāng)為這段共同歷史感到自豪。下次若有中國朋友說美式中餐不地道,好好給他們上一課。
Ingredients, among other things. A waitress in California once whispered to me that the hot and sour soup was really supposed to have blood in it, but it wasn't allowed in America. You won't find any dog or snake, either. You can't get all the right vegetables or spices, either. Indians have the same problem trying to make Indian food in the USA.
食材是關(guān)鍵。加州一位女服務(wù)員曾悄悄告訴我,酸辣湯本該加血,但在美國不允許。你也找不到狗肉或蛇肉,也買不到所有正宗的蔬菜和香料。印度人在美國做印度菜也面臨同樣問題。
My city (nearest major city, that I used to visit often) included a "Chinatown" neighbourhood.
The region, Toronto, has a large Asian population, a lot of importing, exporting, and electronics. ITs great.
Some of the restaurants downtown are very authentic Chinese food.
我所在城市(常去的最近大城市)有個(gè)"唐人街"社區(qū)。
多倫多地區(qū)有大量亞裔人口,進(jìn)出口貿(mào)易和電子產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)達(dá)。很棒。
市中心有些餐館提供非常地道的中餐。
One of the dishes was fried chicken claws. Not something you see in "regular people Chinese food stores".
我們?nèi)ミ^一家餐館,內(nèi)部有雜貨店那么大。非常寬敞。我們被帶到的餐桌是四張非亞裔顧客餐桌之一。因?yàn)槭亲灾?,你能看到所有菜品,不像點(diǎn)餐式餐廳對菜品了解有限。
有道菜是炸雞爪。在"普通中餐館"可看不到這個(gè)。
The reason I remember the chicken claws dish is that, the table next to ours, which had two "white-guys", early twenties, in golf shirts, havin' a good 'ol time, were playing Dancing Feet with the chicken claws on the edge of their plates, having taken some from the buffet, but not intending to actually eat them.
(注:我曾在密西沙加一家"普通中餐館"當(dāng)過幾個(gè)月司機(jī)。菜單上絕對沒有炸雞爪。)
我之所以記得雞爪這道菜,是因?yàn)猷徸纼蓚€(gè)穿高爾夫衫、二十出頭的白人小伙,雖然從自助餐取了雞爪放在盤邊,卻只是拿來玩"跳舞腳"游戲,根本沒打算吃。
Yes, there is a difference between "Chinese food" and "the food in China". The menu you see is missing a bunch of stuff, and other stuff has been changed a bit here and there. It is catered to your tastes.
僅憑我在幾乎全是亞裔顧客的亞洲餐館看到的食物...與售賣"中餐"的亞洲餐館的對比...可以說"以消費(fèi)者為中心"的菜單確實(shí)存在。
是的,"中餐"和"中國的食物"有區(qū)別。你看到的菜單缺了不少東西,其他菜品也做了各種調(diào)整。這都是為了迎合你的口味。
San Francisco area here.
Our favorite place has a special Chinese menu that the owner translated for us once. Stuff like boiled cat stomachs on it - I exaggerate, of course. But food that most Chinese people don't even want.
舊金山地區(qū)報(bào)道。
我們最喜歡的餐館有份特別中文菜單,老板曾為我們翻譯過。上面有煮貓肚之類的菜——當(dāng)然我夸張了。但大多是連中國人都不想吃的東西。
員工幾乎不會說英語,許多春節(jié)、婚禮等活動都在那里舉辦,中國人說那里有家的感覺,這對我來說就夠了。很久前我們參加過一個(gè)中式婚禮,餐館里約有2000人。去往500人規(guī)模的宴會廳途中,我們經(jīng)過一個(gè)又一個(gè)宴廳。傳統(tǒng)中式婚宴菜單,由中國人選擇,中國人烹飪。事實(shí)上我參加過三次這樣的婚禮,這足以讓我信服。
I think the complainers mostly have lousy taste in restaurants. These are the same people searching for "Best Pizza" as though such a thing even ExiSTS.
You sit down, ya eat the food, ya pay the bill and say TYVM. Ya don't like it go someplace else.
同理(線上):"沒有'地道'墨西哥菜。但我們奧克蘭的餐廳精心供應(yīng)各種地區(qū)性墨西哥菜,與Tex-Mex有天壤之別。"
我認(rèn)為抱怨者大多不懂挑選餐廳。這些人還會搜索"最佳披薩",好像真存在這種東西似的。
你坐下,吃東西,付賬說謝謝。不喜歡就去別處。
I have visited China twice, once in 2007 and again in 2017. Both trips were for about a week and a half, involved time in Shanghai and Beijing, and were pretty much for tourist purposes. I don't pretend that this makes me some kind of expert on anything related to China, but it's still more direct exposure to the country that most Americans (and probably most Westerners) have. And I will note that I'm pretty adventurous when it comes to food, especially in more exotic locales — I wasn't just looking for really safe food options on these trips.
我曾兩次造訪中國,2007年和2017年各一次。每次約十天,到過上海和北京,基本是旅游性質(zhì)。我不認(rèn)為這讓我成為什么中國通,但比大多數(shù)美國人(可能多數(shù)西方人)有更直接的接觸。需要說明的是,我對食物相當(dāng)敢于嘗試,尤其在異國他鄉(xiāng)——這兩次旅行我并非只選擇安全食物。
Picture the typical food you would get at a typical Chinese restaurant in the U.S. Fried chicken, pork, and beef in various spicy sauces; stir-fried vegetables; steamed rice; and so forth. In my experience, you could definitely find these foods, or foods directly adjacent to them, in China. If anyone tries to tell you that the kind of food you see at a U.S. Chinese restaurant doesn't exist in China, that it is just made up for Americans or something, then that is not correct.
我的個(gè)人觀察是:
想象美國普通中餐館的典型食物:各種辣醬炒雞豬牛肉、炒蔬菜、米飯等。根據(jù)我的經(jīng)驗(yàn),在中國肯定能找到這些食物或類似菜品。若有人說美國中餐館的食物在中國不存在,是專門為美國人發(fā)明的,那是不對的。
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最大區(qū)別在于中國的食物遠(yuǎn)不止這些。中國地理面積與美國相當(dāng),地理多樣性相似,意味著物產(chǎn)豐富造就了多樣的地方菜系。和美國一樣,中國也有豐富的民族多樣性,影響了許多地方菜系。簡而言之,中國和美國相似,都有一個(gè)歷史上占主導(dǎo)地位的民族,樂于邊緣化少數(shù)民族卻仍吸納他們的美食。我在中國吃過最好的一餐標(biāo)榜是突厥美食,基本就是新疆菜。
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反過來想。東半球的餐館里什么能算"美式食物"?漢堡熱狗?直接就是麥當(dāng)勞?無論如何,都是你在美國能吃到的東西,但這不意味著美國沒有其他各種食物,或美國人整天只吃麥當(dāng)勞。
在任何類似情況下,你都會因食材獲取而產(chǎn)生變化。中國廚師可能使用某些在美國很難采購的香料,因此美國廚師嘗試遵循相同食譜時(shí)不得不做些調(diào)整以求接近。這算"地道"嗎?我認(rèn)為算,即使最終成品不會完全相同。
it isn't the same, but i wouldn't say it is less authentic. Many of the dishes in Chinese restaurants in america were created by Chinese immigrants. The reason they are not the same is because the immigrants didn't have access to all the ingredients they would have had back home, so they used what was locally available that was close enough to make approximations of their traditional foods, one because it was what they knew how to cook and two because it was a reminder of home.
雖然不同,但我不認(rèn)為這就不夠正宗。美國中餐館的許多菜品是由中國移民創(chuàng)造的。之所以不同,是因?yàn)橐泼駸o法獲得家鄉(xiāng)的所有食材,只能用本地能找到的近似材料來制作傳統(tǒng)食物,一是因?yàn)樗麄冎涝趺醋?,二是因?yàn)檫@能讓他們想起家鄉(xiāng)。
人們總愛貶低美式中餐,卻忘了最初制作這些菜品的正是中國人,而且它們誕生于貧困時(shí)期,當(dāng)時(shí)全球新鮮農(nóng)產(chǎn)品的貿(mào)易既困難又昂貴。
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it depends on the restaurant and it depends on the city. We've just moved to a community about 35 miles north of Chicago and it's remarkably unsophisticated. There's several Chinese restaurants and it's all full of thick cornstarch sauce and very little flavor. None of them know how to make Kung pow chicken. they sell chop Suey and chow mein.
這取決于餐館和城市。我們剛搬到芝加哥以北35英里的社區(qū),這里相當(dāng)不講究。有幾家中餐館,菜品全是濃稠的淀粉芡汁,沒什么味道。沒人會做宮保雞丁。他們只賣雜碎和炒面。
authentic Chinese food tends to be saltier and depending on the region, sometimes very spicy.
話說回來,即使在紐約、芝加哥或洛杉磯,你也吃不到云南風(fēng)干雞、炸小蛇或活猴腦。
地道中餐通常更咸,根據(jù)地區(qū)不同有時(shí)會非常辣。